Once a branch is thicker than your thumb, a lopper starts to crush and a saw starts to make sense. The Sawtooth has a 13 in. curved SK5 steel blade with triple-ground teeth at 7 points per inch – aggressive enough to move through a 5 in. limb, fine enough not to tear the bark on the way out.
It cuts on the pull stroke. That sounds like a detail and is not: pulling keeps the blade in tension, so it does not buckle when you are working one-handed above your head, and it puts the effort into the part of the stroke where your arm is strongest. The curve does the rest, biting deeper as you draw back.
The blade folds into the handle and locks in both positions, so it will not close on your fingers mid-cut and will not open in a bag. The handle is moulded with a textured grip that holds even in a wet glove, and there is a lanyard hole for working up a ladder. The blade is replaceable and the teeth are impulse-hardened – they will outlast several seasons but cannot be resharpened, which is the trade for how long they stay keen.
Specifications
| Blade length | 13 in., curved |
|---|---|
| Blade steel | SK5 carbon steel, impulse-hardened teeth |
| Teeth | Triple ground, 7 TPI, cuts on the pull stroke |
| Cutting capacity | Branches up to 5 in. |
| Lock | Two-position, locks open and closed |
| Handle | Moulded textured grip with lanyard hole |
| Weight | 0.9 lb |
| Dimensions | 15 x 2 x 1 in. folded |
Care
Keep the blade dry and wipe the sap off after cutting green wood – resin is the fastest way to make a saw drag. Do not try to sharpen impulse-hardened teeth; fit a replacement blade when it stops pulling chips. Check the lock engages fully before every cut, and never force the saw sideways to free a pinched blade.
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